40 Perfect L.A. Foods
The dishes that define this city for me
It’s the final month of The Angel in L.A., and to mark the occasion, I’ll be publishing a series of somewhat sentimental goodbye posts. First up: a long list of perfect L.A. foods—the dishes I crave often, have no notes on, and will undoubtedly pine for once I’m back on the East Coast. I hate the phrase “best bites” when it comes to food, yet that’s the idea here. These dishes feel so essential, they’ve become intrinsic to—maybe even definitive of—Los Angeles, or at least my L.A. I’m feeling generous, so this letter is free!
Plain Croissant, Petitgrain Boulangerie
I’ve sought out many of Paris’ supposedly best croissants, and Petitgrain Boulangerie still makes the best I’ve ever had. A perfect food, perfectly executed.
Plum Donut, Bub & Grandma’s (above)
Donuts are not my preferred indulgence, so I rarely eat them. The yeasted, seasonal glazed donuts at Bub & Grandma’s, however, are an exception. Light, airy, structurally flawless, and only as sweet as necessary. Be sure to try the current plum number this summer.
Blackberry-Raspberry Scone, All Time
I once believed the secret to this tender, tangy scone, pooled with jammy berries, was buttermilk, until I received The Cook Book of All Time and realized it’s actually sour cream. Some days, I wake up and simply need an All Time scone. I’ll be sad when I can’t satisfy that craving in minutes.
Donato’s Pie, Cafe Tropical
Ed Cornell’s take on a history-laden Cafe Tropical classic: whipped cream cheese spiked with crème fraîche and house-made guava jam encased in puff pastry (also made in-house) then sliced to order.
Run it Thru The Garden, Courage Bagels
Courage Bagels changed the bagel game, worldwide. The veg-centric Run it Thru The Garden—cream cheese, tomato, cucumber, onion, capers, dill, lemon, salt, pepper, olive oil—is forever the signature Courage bagel in my mind, and a bona fide California classic. Also, psst: a jar of their crunchy California almond butter is worth the $24 price tag, and an excellent gift from L.A.
Breakfast Bowl, Honey Hi
Of course Honey Hi perfected the art of salad for breakfast: sweet potato hash, poached farm egg, avocado, heritage bacon, local greens, herbs, sumac, smoked paprika. Filling and healthful at once, it’s an ideal, very Los Angeles breakfast.
Set Meal, Yang’s Kitchen
I’ve lost count of how many Saturdays David and I have woken up, added our name to Yang’s Kitchen’s online waitlist, and driven to Alhambra for the Japanese-style set breakfast. Anyone who’s tasted the dry-aged Steelhead marinated in yuzu miso—served with miso soup, fluffy multigrain rice, seasonal farmers’ market vegetables, house pickles, and a soy egg—knows this is exactly what we should be eating first thing in the morning.
Fish & Egg Plate, Gjusta
Down to the vintage silver platter it’s served on, this dish embodies everything the Venice institution does so well: customizable, high-quality, house-prepared, California deli-style fare. Choose one or three of a dozen (often smoked) fish items like pastrami gravlax, kippered salmon, and white anchovies to be paired with a soft-boiled egg, a side of labneh, pickled onions, capers, tomato, cucumbers and radish, and toasted Gjusta bread.
Eggplant Caviar, Mini Kabob
Hat tip to Armen for hospitably adding a tub of eggplant caviar to my order during the early days of my regular visits to Mini Kabob. Now, it’s a must-order: the exceptionally creamy, smoke-kissed eggplant-pepper dip does wonders when smeared onto juicy charred chicken thighs, medium-rare lamb chops, and plump buttery grains of basmati rice.
Cobb Salad, Café Telegrama
I still stand by my claim that Café Telegrama makes the best Chinese Chicken Salad in L.A. But the one I crave most among the Melrose Hill café’s immaculate, lettuce-based offerings is actually the Cobb: mixed greens, blue cheese, chicken, bacon, and cherry tomatoes—all chopped, but not too finely. By skipping the avocado and hard-boiled egg (essentials in a traditional Cobb salad), the Telegrama version strikes just the right balance of richness without sacrificing the virtuous feeling of having eaten a salad.
Inari, Sakae Sushi
A mound of sushi rice wrapped in a thin blanket of fried tofu—seasoned with mirin, dashi, soy, and sugar—is, on its own, a perfect food. The best place to seek out inari is Sakae, a Kansai-style sushi shop in Gardena that dates back to 1962, known for handmade maki and oshizushi with beautifully vinegared rice. Call ahead to order, and bring cash.
Chuchito, Komal
I first had Komal’s chuchito as a special. It’s only right that the ethereal, orb-shaped tamale is now a menu mainstay. Braised pork is stuffed inside a mound of house-nixtamalized corn masa, wrapped in corn husks, and steamed, then showered with crunchy, acidic vegetable curtido and finished with tomato sauce, sour cream, and cilantro.
Sorrel Pesto Rice Bowl, Sqirl
Sqirl has had its ups and downs over the years, but the breakfast-and-lunch restaurant’s influence on Los Angeles cuisine—and honestly, breakfast and lunch restaurants globally—cannot be overstated. Case in point? The signature sorrel pesto rice bowl, the OG rice bowl, and still the only rice bowl I ever really want to eat. I go ½ rice, ½ kale.
Zhengyalov Hatz, Zhengyalov Hatz
This just might be the most perfect food on this perfect foods list. Every day, a small team of Armenian women makes these flatbreads fresh, filled with 12 types of greens and herbs, and nothing else but onions, lemon, salt, and oil. Sprinkle with paprika, enjoy.
Gimbap, Perilla
When it’s been too long since I’ve had Jihee Kim’s gimbap, I start to get antsy. She layers her impeccable rolled omelet with spears of cucumber, bright yellow pickled radish, avocado, carrot sticks, garlic chives, and sweet soy-glazed shiitakes, all on a bed of soft white rice, then wraps it tightly in nori and serves it with hot Korean mustard. Sure, it’s pricier than the grocery store versions—but it’s also far better.
Tuna Tostada, Holbox
Is Holbox the most L.A. restaurant in L.A.? Perhaps. They source the majority of their fish locally and dry-age it on-site to craft ceviches, tostadas, aguachiles, and cocteles that are unparalleled in taste, inside a mercado. So much hits, but the bluefin tostada at Holbox stands out—especially in a city where bluefin is king.
Tuna Melt, The Apple Pan
You’ll only find a tuna sandwich on the menu, but real heads know to order it as an (off-menu) melt. The Apple Pan makes their version of the world’s best sandwich with all the right ingredients: rye bread, cheddar cheese, and, for a dose of distinctness, chopped pickles in the tuna salad. Heaven.
Crispy Pork Bánh Mì, Bánh Mì Hoa Phat
I’m convinced that crispy pork is the key to next-level bánh mì, at least when executed by Ken Hy and Nhat Hoa Tran at Bánh Mì Hoa Phat. They bake their own bread, roast pork in-house, and make pâté from scratch. The result? Transformative.
Pastrami Sandwich, Langer’s
What Nora Ephron said still stands: “It’s soft but crispy, tender but chewy, peppery but sour, smoky but tangy. It’s a symphony orchestra.” Better than Katz’s!
Shengjianbao, Kang Kang Food Court
These Shanghainese pan-fried pork dumplings boast golden crusted bottoms, lush soupy centers, and a sprinkling of black sesame seeds and chopped scallions. They’re made to order, so patience is required. I can’t think of a better dumpling I’ve had in L.A.
Fish Flauta, Ditroit
If Damian is underrated (and it is), it’s back-alley taqueria Ditroit is even more so. The fish flauta, stuffed with shredded machaca and topped with crema, salsa verde, and an onion-laced pile of chopped cabbage, is a revelatory early evening snack—especially alongside a margarita.
Chicken Noodle Soup, Chong Qing Special Noodles
The typical order here does not include a simple bowl of chicken noodle soup, nor does Jonathan Gold’s review of the San Gabriel Chongqing restaurant. Both should. I’m forever grateful to Balo for letting me in on the little-known fact that Chong Qing Special Noodles makes the city’s best rendition of the international cure-all, resplendent with silky broth, hand-pulled noodles, and tender hunks of chicken.
Banchan, Western Doma Noodles
Readers of The Angel know that Western Doma Noodles has long been our Koreatown go-to. I love the zen energy, the ajumma who barely speaks English yet knows us well, and the soups, but the best part of a meal here is the banchan at the start. It’s all superb: radish kimchi, fish cake strips, sesame-slicked bean sprouts, lightly vinegared spinach, cabbage kimchi, seaweed salad, et cetera.
Uni Donut with Jamón and Caviar, Kato
Some chefs lean into uni-topped plates and caviar add-ons. Jon Yao puts those luxury ingredients to smarter use—uni folded into a donut batter, draped with jamón, and crowned with a bump (sorry) of caviar. It’s the most transcendent hors d'oeuvre I’ve had the pleasure of eating.
Sai Ua, Amphai Northern Thai Food Club
Sai ua translates to Northern Thai sausage, and Northern Thai Food Club’s version is sensational. The sausage is laced with lemongrass, kaffir lime, galangal, and shallots, and is generally dense in texture. But here, it has an almost feathery lightness that gives way to bursts of aromatic spice.
Moronga, Poncho’s Tlayudas
My other favorite sausage in Los Angeles is Alfonso “Poncho” Martinez’s blood sausage, the recipe for which was a wedding gift from his wife’s father. Quietly smoky and slightly spicy with an undertone of mint, the genius in Poncho’s moronga lies in its subtle richness. He finishes his sausages with a sear on the plancha before slicing them into easy-to-pull-apart pieces.
Fried Egg Salad, Ruen Pair
Four eggs (or is it three?) are fried over-medium to produce slightly runny yolks and crispy, lacy exteriors, then dressed with fish sauce, lime juice, red chili, red onion, and scallion. Simultaneously funky, fiery, decadent, and refreshing, Ruen Pair’s fried egg salad is surely a top-five dish in Thai Town.
Blue Crab Handroll, Echigo
It’s not uncommon for a blue crab handroll to close out an omakase, but the one that stole my heart decades ago was Echigo’s—and it still holds up. I finish every meal there (usually à la carte) with sweet, creamy crab wrapped in crisp, toasted nori and perfectly seasoned, always warm sushi rice.
Japanese Sweet Potatoes, Sam’s Place
Japanese sweet potatoes are a staple in my kitchen at home, and in my Erewhon combo plate. But Ben Jones of Sam’s Place whips up my favorite starch like no one else: cooked thrice (roasted, charred, re-heated in the pizza oven), plated over a puddle of tahini, and finished with a zingy heap of diced green chiles. I could eat this every day.
Baywatch Platter, Found Oyster
I crave seafood in the summertime. And in Los Angeles, it’s always kind of summertime. The Baywatch Platter at Found—a dozen oysters, four peel-and-eat prawns, and Sicilian crudo à la Swan Oyster Depot—is often Instagrammed and never disappointing. When the craving hits, it’s exactly what I want, maybe with a side of smoked trout dip.
Gnudi Set, Stir Crazy
Stir Crazy’s answer to adding fresh pasta to the rotation in their tiny kitchen is gnudi, an underrated and pretty perfect pasta shape that’s utterly pillowy due to its ricotta-based dough. Because it’s Stir Crazy, and seasonal is the way, it’s sometimes served with Japanese turnips; other times (like now), with leek flowers and yellow corn.
Monk’s Chirashi, YESS Restaurant
Junya Yamasaki’s “Monk’s Chirashi” is as chef’s kiss to California as it gets. It starts with a toasty bed of rice, scattered with shreds of nori and a rotating mix of seeds or nuts (currently sesame and pumpkin). On top: a colorful arrangement of prepped seasonal fruits and vegetables. The summer version brims with crunchy green beans and cucumbers, candy-like shiitake and eggplant, tiny cubes of softened carrot, halved sungold tomatoes, slivers of plum and white nectarine, and shiso leaves. There’s something quietly transportive about the way the flavors come together.
Wagyu Beef Tongue Skewer, RVR
Nearly every dish on RVR’s market-driven, vegetable-forward California-Japanese menu delivers that eyes-roll-back-in-your-head kind of pleasure. But it’s the Wagyu beef tongue skewer—soft as butter, paired with torpedo onion salsa and toasted sesame oil—that proves even adventurous ingredients are worth trusting to Travis Lett.
Edna’s Sour Milk Cornbread, Dunsmoor
This isn’t even my favorite dish at Dunsmoor, but it’s undeniably exceptional—and just as essential an order for first-timers as Dunsmoor is a restaurant. Served in a miniature cast-iron pan, shot through with white cheddar and hatch chile, and smothered in cultured butter and honey, it’s more sweet than savory. But who said anything was wrong with mid-meal dessert?
Pancit, Lasita
Before I met the pancit at Lasita, I had only one true comfort food: macaroni and cheese. And by comfort food, I mean the kind of dish you physically can’t stop eating once it’s in front of you. I could be full to the brim and still devour a plate of these yakisoba noodles, stir-fried with blue oyster mushrooms, seasonal vegetables, garlic-toyomansi glaze, and chili crunch.
Crispy Shrimp, Bistro Na’s
If you’re going to Bistro Na’s, whether for a casual hang or a celebratory occasion, there’s one rule: at least two crispy shrimp per guest (shellfish allergies and kosher folks aside, of course). Butterflied and shellacked in an irresistible glaze, they’re not only stunning—they also might be the best shrimp in town. (This is a town with limited exceptional shrimp cocktail, so this is fair to say.)
Sudachi Soba, Otafuku
It’s July, which means sudachi soba season at Otafuku is likely underway. The run usually lasts two to three months, so call ahead to confirm and reserve your bowl in advance. During this time, the kitchen slices Japanese sudachi, a lime-like citrus, into thin rounds and drapes them over cold soba in a delicate, umami-rich broth. It’s a shining example of how joyful seasonal eating can be in L.A., especially given that the sudachi is sourced from the trees in the owner’s backyard.
Brûléed Lemon Tart, Café 2001
Citrus is everywhere in Los Angeles. When I moved into my current house, I inherited a Meyer lemon tree, a lime tree, and a navel orange tree. Our farmers’ market citrus—especially from JJ’s Lone Daughter Ranch—is some of the best in the world. Café 2001’s punchy, elegant lemon tart, brûléed to perfection, is a brilliant showcase.
Ptichye Moloko, Rose & Rye
I first tried Rose & Rye four years ago, stopping by Kristine and Rose Jingozian’s family home in Granada Hills to pick up a box of fat, flaky nazook. I was hooked from that moment on. My favorite of the sisters’ Armenian baked goods is their ptichye moloko, or bird’s milk cake—made from super-thin tiers of rye biscuit, marshmallowy vanilla bean mousse, and dark chocolate sauce. It tastes like what you’d get if Russian honey cake and s’mores had a baby.
Sheep’s Milk Cheesecake, Horses
Horses sneakily makes some of the best desserts in L.A., thanks to Hannah Grubba, the restaurant’s pastry chef since day one. Her cheesecake, made with sheep’s milk and paired with stewed seasonal fruit, is tart, velvety, and remarkably airy. It’s sublime.
Princess Cake, Quarter Sheets
You know this cake, you’ve had this cake. And if you haven’t, you’re definitely doing something wrong. Princess cake hails from Sweden, but Hannah Ziskin made it her own—with ultra-moist, almost-savory olive oil chiffon; thick layers of whipped cream and salted pastry cream; a double ripple of bright raspberry jam; and a homemade marzipan shroud. Now, it feels like a dessert that belongs to L.A. It’s a classic Los Angeles story: take something from elsewhere, break a rule or two, produce something wildly delicious.
Did you count and realize there are actually 41 foods on this list? Consider the extra entry an added bonus. ;)
Selfishly can’t wait for your New York content!
Truly a greatest hits record