Plugs — Andrew Lawson

L.A. food, drink, and leisure recs from the owner of Étra + LINKS

Plugs is The Angel’s recs column. Every week, you’ll get six picks—a restaurant, a bar, a shop, an ingredient, a person, and a treat—from someone in Los Angeles who knows what they’re talking about, plus a selection of Angel-curated links. (Plugs are for paid subscribers of The Angel only; upgrade your subscription to receive all six!)

#62 is Andrew Lawson, the restarateur behind Italian charmer Ètra and its next-door daytime spot, Café Telegrama, in Melrose Hill. Prior to moving back to his hometown of Los Angeles, Andrew earned his stripes managing restaurants in New York, including Estela, Flora Bar, and Rebelle. When he and his partner, the chef Evan Algorri, opened their restaurants last year, they paved the way for other restaurateurs, gallerists, grocers, and fashion designers who have since moved into the neighborhood. Melrose Hill will only continue to heat up in 2025. As it does, don’t forget to pay tribute to the places that kickstarted the renaissance. In my humble opinion, both Étra and Telegrama are better than they’ve ever been. Here are Andrew’s L.A. Plugs!

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Restaurant — Osteria Mozza

Osteria Mozza is one of the best. A quintessential Los Angeles restaurant. Nancy is a living legend. We go for anniversaries, birthdays, etc., but my favorite is a casual date night at the mozzarella bar. My wife, Emma, and I go often, generally on Sunday or Monday night. The food is consistently delicious, and the menu changes often. Most importantly, the staff and service are fun, warm, and personable. Being able to add personality and character to fine dining is an art, and Mozza does it perfectly. Go and sit in Elyssa's section!

Photos by Andrew Lawson.