Plugs — Octavio Olivas

L.A. food, drink, and leisure recs from a ceviche master + LINKS

Plugs is The Angel’s recs column. Every week, you’ll get six picks—a restaurant, a bar, a shop, an ingredient, a person, and a treat—from someone in Los Angeles who knows what they’re talking about, plus a selection of Angel-curated links. (Plugs are for paid subscribers of The Angel only; upgrade your subscription to receive all six!)

#76 is Octavio Olivas, the chef-owner of Ceviche Project in Silver Lake. A Mexico City native and former lawyer, Octavio pivoted from a successful career to pursue his passion for raw fish and acid over a decade ago. Six years ago, he made the leap from pop-up to brick-and-mortar, and today, he remains more or less a one-man operation, serving raw bar specialities, signature ceviches, tiraditos, and tostadas. In a 2019 review, Bill Addison called the latter “monuments to fish built on pebbly-textured, undulating fried corn tortillas made in Guadalajara.” The Infuation loves it, TimeOut loves it, Goop loves it, and Eater loves it. Here’s Octavio with his Plugs.

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Restaurant — Dunsmoor

I know I’m not alone in my love for Dunsmoor. It’s my Cheers: right around the corner from my home in Glassell Park, and because they close later than a lot of other restaurants, I can go there after I finish work, sit at the back bar, and order some of their delicious food with a very cold Champagne of beers. IYKYK. My favorite menu items at the moment are the pickled mussels and steak tartare. Chef Brian is a great conversationalist. Pro tip: only at the back bar, ask for one of the most succulent burgers you'll ever have. Awesome date night spot.

Photo by Octavio Olivas.