Plugs is The Angel’s recs column. Every week, you’ll get six picks—a restaurant, a bar, a shop, an ingredient, a person, and a treat—from someone in Los Angeles who knows what they’re talking about. (Plugs are for paid subscribers of The Angel only. However, if you’re in the restaurant industry and want a free subscription, hit me up. :))
#35 is Miles Shorey, the executive chef of Pijja Palace. Miles hails from Virginia, where he worked at the esteemed Restaurant at Patowmack Farms before landing in Los Angeles to cook at Roberta’s and Bistro Jolie, ultimately teaming up with Avish Naran to open the palace. The culinary mastermind behind the Indian sports bar’s trademark dishes, from aloo tiki sliders to saag pijja, Miles is a genuinely original talent in the kitchen. He’s also a sweetheart. I met him before Pijja Palace opened, on assignment for Resy, and when he let me try his dosa onion rings and tandoor spaghetti, I knew that Avish had a hit sensation on his hands. Because I know you want to know where the man behind malai rigatoni likes to eat and drink, here are his L.A. plugs.
Restaurant — Ruen Pair
On my night off, I often head straight to Thai Town with Ruen Pair as my destination. In a city with, in my opinion, some of the best Thai food in our country, it can be really hard to narrow down a consistent go-to spot and then feel okay visiting repeatedly. (A really good problem to have!) I crave the salty turnip with egg — a crisp, sweetly pungent, fluffy egg dish that comes out looking like a jagged omelette. My mouth waters thinking about it, and paired with a cold, crisp Thai beer, it’s perfection. I swear they have a photo of my face at the server’s station with a note to take away the table’s jar of pickled serrano peppers before I eat all of them with reckless abandon. I also recommend ordering a whole fried pompano fish with a side of rice and a plate of sautéed morning glory.
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