Plugs is The Angel’s recs column. Every week, you’ll get six picks—a restaurant, a bar, a shop, an ingredient, a person, and a treat—from someone in Los Angeles who knows what they’re talking about. (Plugs are for paid subscribers of The Angel only. However, if you’re in the restaurant industry and want a free subscription, hit me up. :) That said, Today’s Plugs are free for all!)
#36 is Eddie Navarrette, more commonly known as Fast Eddie, a steadfast advocady leader, seasoned permit expeditor, and all-around instrumental player on the back-end of L.A.’s restaurant industry. As the chief consultant of FE Design & Consulting, Eddie is a go-to resource for operators navigating the red tape of City Hall. From planning to drafting, designing, and expediting, he and his team help hundreds of Los Angeles restaurants open their doors. Eddie is also the executive director of the Independent Hospitality Coailition, an organization that provides representation for small restaurants in L.A. and helps shape policy in their favor. Currently, Eddie is focused on two important bills: The Small Business Support Act (AB 2550), which aims to save millions of dollars for California businesses when permitting outdoor dining patios, remodeling existing businesses, or building new businesses and SB 1524, which enables restaurants to sidestep the ”junk fee” ban by clearly communcating the context behind surcharges. On Monday, the IHC is hosting a fundraiser at Jemma to support these efforts featuring family-style dishes from Moo’s Craft BBQ, Poncho’s Tlayudas, Tsubaki, Barras Santos, and more. Tickets are HERE.
Eddie is Los Angeles native, dining obsessive, wine connoisseur, and a key source for a deeply reported The Angel story dropping next week. Fun fact: he’s also the brother of Cafe Tropical’s Rene Navarrette. Here are his L.A. plugs!
Restaurant — Sushi Gen
I've heard that your favorite restaurant is the one that remembers your name; that place for me is Sushi Gen. It is the equivalent of a spa day where I get treated like I'm a part of the family. Family-owned and operated, it is not only some of the best sushi I've ever had, it is an inspiration. The chefs and staff here have been here for several years, even decades. It is a place worth fighting for. So when I’m beat to utter exhaustion from all the red tape and policy battles of the week, I can depend on Sushi Gen being that place that will restore my purpose. Pro-tip is to sit at the sushi bar and order omakase.
Bar — Here’s Looking At You
Primarily a wine man, I have seen the cocktail light after meeting the Here’s Looking at You team in Koreatown. Like a fine aged red Burgundy, cocktails at Here’s Looking at You have made it difficult for me to have cocktails anywhere else. The menu is seasonal, and the cocktails always have a story related to something important, like a Los Angeles landmark or a regular’s nickname. You can tell that a lot of work goes into the presentations. It’s where bartenders and chefs go for cocktails. The vibe, the hospitality, and the food also help with being able to stay awhile. It’s great for single patrons. It’s a place I take out-of-towners if I want to show them the diversity Los Angeles has to offer.
Shop — Domaine LA
A fun fact about me is I have two very large wine refrigerator cabinets in my apartment living room that fit 800 bottles. So, on payday (or just because), I go to my favorite wine store, Domaine LA. Owned and operated by Jill Bernheimer, they carry a bottle for anyone and every occasion. I can tell that the staff love wine as much as I do—or even more. I am supporting our local economy by shopping here. Also, I'm looking forward to their first restaurant concept in Melrose Hill set to open later this year!
Ingredient — Salsa
One piece of culture that my family passed on to me was good salsa. My mom used to make salsa from scratch, and we would put it on anything. For me, a good Mexican restaurant has to deliver on its salsa. It’s great to mix the textures of a good salsa with a charred protein in a tortilla or to soak it into the rice. Northgate Market carries a great selection of pre-made salsas next to its deli section.
Person — Mott Smith
Parking used to be one of the biggest hurdles to opening a restaurant in Los Angeles. Per an archaic zoning code, restaurants had to provide an unreasonable amount of parking in order to open. Early in my career, I saw one man create a solution for restaurants on Third Street (at La Cienega) by making a deal with the city of L.A. wherein it became permissible for a neighboring shopping center to allow for several restaurants to use their parking spots through a community valet program. This man is now a mentor and a dear friend: Mott Smith. Helping Mott with Amped Kitchens, L.A.’s first shared kitchen space in Highland Park, we developed a "broship" that has led to passing some of our most important policies for restaurants, including the Emergency Ordinance and Al Fresco. He is my partner in crime and is just as outspoken as I am regarding red tape. A fellow musician, Mott used to play bass in the L.A. band The Imposters, who famously had a residency at The Kibitz Room (the bar at Canter's Deli). He is chair of the Council of Infill Builders and serves on the L.A. Small Business Commission.
Treat — The Hollywood Roosevelt
Living in Los Angeles, we often forget to take advantage of all the wonderful places available to us. The parks, the beaches, the museums. Growing up in L.A., I have always been fascinated with Hollywood. The history, the old music venues, the bars, the tourists; it has been through so much. I rarely make time for myself these days, so in a pinch, I pack a suit, some wine, and treat myself for a stay in the cabana rooms at The Hollywood Roosevelt during the week. They have a great pool, and the rooms are scattered around it. You are within walking distance from Musso’s, The Magic Castle, and In-N-Out. All classic L.A. institutions that make me proud to live in and dine in L.A.
Rax Will’s magnum opus on queer hospitality for Eater
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The Supersonic’s
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Priya Krishna of the NYT on how Asian groceries like H Mart, Patel Brothers, and 99 Ranch are reshaping American eating habits